Last week when I got all those knitting books from the library (which I have gone through twice now and marked pages to scan) I also got two books on dressmaking. One of them is from the 90s, a big, thick paperback that made me think there was no way I’d ever be able to design my own clothes or get beyond the simple alterations I’ve done on patterns. Granted, the book is a costume and dress design book that talks about the history of dress and the fine points to remember when making that elaborate Elizabethan era gown, but still. The book assumes a knowledge of design already and is geared toward period stage costuming, because if you want to make clothes they must be for the stage because who makes their own clothes these days?
Disappointed, I turned to the second book with no hope. That book, Pattern and Costume Designing was published in 1940 as a textbook by the Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences. I love this little book so much I am going to have to find a copy to call my own. I am hoping it isn’t a collectible and won’t be fearfully expensive.
What is so marvelous about this book is that it makes the whole clothing design business seem easy. All you have to do is start with a foundation pattern of a skirt and a blouse. The foundation pattern is as basic as you get. It doesn’t tell you how to create a foundation pattern, but that is fine, I believe I can find commercial patterns that I can use that will serve just as well. From the foundation pattern it walks you through how to create different skirts, straight, flared, full, you name it. Same for the blouse. It shows you how to change a basic collar into a myriad of other collars as well as how to alter the neckline.
The book also shows you how to put the skirt and top patterns together to design a dress from a basic everyday dress to an evening gown.
But that’s not all. The first half of the book is devoted to pattern making, the second half to design and planning. It’s the second half that most makes me want a copy of this book. It talks about hair, skin and eye color in relationship to choosing fabric color. It politely talks about the variety of women’s figures and puts them into neat categories and discusses dress lines and fit in relation to each (before a proper fit can be made, however, the woman must be wearing a properly fitted “corset and brassiere).
It also talks about the importance of a woman’s personality in choosing proper clothing:
A woman’s clothes should be planned not only to flatter her physique but to interpret and express her personality as well, for persons with the same general physical structure vary considerably in personality. For instance, one woman of average, or standard, figure may have a sweetly feminine and romantic personality, while another of similar figure may be very matter-of-fact or business-like. Also, most women have more or less complex natures and are affected by moods [emphasis mine]. At one time, a woman may feel vivacious, and again reposeful and quiet. The woman who is able to provide sufficient variety in frocks to dress to her moods as well as the occasion is a find for any designer. The more average type, however, keeps to the middle road in the garment itself and finds expression for variation in feeling in her accessories, a valuable suggestion for the designer to keep in mind.
I love that “most” women have “more or less” complex natures. That made me hoot when I read that. It is only because no one would dare write or believe something like that now that I can laugh and make fun. Of course, there are plenty of things when it comes to the current status of women that aren’t funny, but let’s put that aside to laugh at the 1940s.
As you can see, this gem of a book is both practical and potentially useful as well as entertaining. And a quick side search turns it up in a few places, the cheapest is $60. Ouch. Oh well, maybe someday when I have cash to splurge on something. Until then, there’s always the library!
That sounds like a great book! You’ll have to keep your eye out for it. I am now ready to pull out my sewing machine and get my projects done… I’m always inspired by all these crafting blogs I read, everyone is so creative and makes it seem so easy. Can’t wait to see your creations!!
That is a wonderful find! I love the idea that we should have a sufficient variety of frocks to be able to dress according to mood.
My more or less complex nature tells me I do not have sufficient frocks to wear according to my varying moods. No doubt the editor would be aghast to learn I wear jeans and plain shirts and tennis shoes most of the time. Ack. I think it’s cool you can sew, though. I personally have a slight fear of my sewing machine, but I occasionally conquer it when I need to use it for my needlework!
The book sounds like fun–I hope you find a copy of your very own.
My wife was a flower child of the 60′s but somewhere along the line she learned to sew, and continues to sew, and loves it. She sews when something is needed — something special for grandchildren, something for their dolls, something for her (very rarely) but she never became obsessed with sewing for sewing’s sake.
She doesn’t want to be where she can’t have access to a sewing machine but she doesn’t look for a reason to sew; the reasons seem to come to her.
There goes my horrible imagination at work again, after reading this, seeing myself finding this book, learning to sew, and actually wearing my very own creations. HA! and HA! HA! In fact, HA! HA! HA! However, I admire those of you who are truly inspired to do such things.
This sounds really cool! I’m so totally not a dress maker, but I can see the the appeal, and it sounds like the book you found is just what you need. I like the idea of having a basic pattern and being to make endless variations. I’m glad you found a book that gives you the information you were looking for.
This book reminds me of one my Mom has, I think from the ’50s when she was into making so many of our clothes. It has a line drawing of a very chic woman on the front. I think it was published by Singer. Oh, I’ll have to rummage through her shelves and closets to find it – I’m sure she still has it. She’d never throw a book away.
The book sounds like a gem. And it’s true! Most women do have more or less complex natures. Sewing is a bit more gratifying than knitting as it takes much less time. Usually.
I love those old sewing books, especially since they include instructions on hand-sewing, which the new books do not. I have a Vogue Sewing from 1982 which is downright encyclopedic, and confirms that shoulder pads were fashionable at one time and it’s not just my imagination. I also like it because it doesn’t assume that I have a computerized machine with a bazillion stitches. I’m still in the dark ages where I have to tie my own knots!
Sewing was definitely one of the most useful classes I ever took (along with typing). It can be a frustrating art but it’s pleasing to be able to make and alter things yourself. I’ve never tried custom-fitting a standard pattern, though. I mostly sew things for the house. It’s usually cheaper to buy clothes, alas.
Oh that sounds so delightful! My more or less complex personality, not to mention my varying mood, so often looks in the closet and tells me I just have nothing to wear! My grandmother was a professional dressmaker, and my mother a very accomplished one. She made almost all my clothes when I was little and all my ball dresses and my wedding dress when I was older. Me, I can barely sew on a button! But it must be marvellous to be able to sew.
Thanks for the amusement.
Drafting And Pattern Designing, Woman’s Institute Of Domestic Arts & Sciences.
for 22 dollars seems similar– might be an earlier edition?
The only one I could find that matched exactly was 66 dollars– it seems that the “author” is usually shortened to “Women’s Institute.”
What a great find! Complex figures, indeed
You know what I loved to look at as a kid? The pattern books, like Burda, Simplicity, Vogue… I would mark the pages of the clothes I wanted my mom to make me. She’s still behind on that project – haha…
Daphne, it will be a little while yet before I have any creations to show off. I have to set the machine up somewhere Waldo and Dickens can’t get it at. My cat prior to these two never cared, but Waldo and Dickens are too curious for their own good!
Melanie, I like that we should have all those frocks too. Now I wonder where I can get the closet space to hold them?
Danielle, lol, your wardrobe sounds wonderful to me but there is an unspoken rule about jeans except on Fridays at my work. So frocks for mood and any weather are my goal! I understand you sewing machine fear. I have a minor one but after I sew for awhile I manage to forget it.
Bruce, your wife and her sewing sounds wonderful.
Emily, first you practice on things like Barbie clothes and curtains and when you master that it is only a matter of progression to that fine, tailored wardrobe
Dorothy, it was a lucky find. Now I just have to find the time and space to try out the books instructions!
Grad, my mom made most all my sister’s and my clothes when we were kids. I think she has the book your mom does or one very much like it!
Carrie, you are right, it generally takes less time than knitting, but I think I tend to swear more when I sew for some reason. probably because I poke myself so much with pins.
Sylvia, unfortunately it is usually cheaper to buy clothes. I’ve never understood why. I don’t think it used to be like that. My sewing machine is pretty basic too. My mom helped me pick it out and scoffed at the machines with all the fancy stitches. She rightly told me I wouldn’t even use most of the stitches on the basic one I got and she is right.
Litlove, how did you manage to not learn to sew with the grandmother and mother that you had? Well, I take that back, my sister never learned to sew. My mom made my prom dress but she flat out refused to make my wedding dress. She did, however, make my sister’s maid of honor dress.
Bikkuri, any time!
Foxfier, thanks for looking! Drafting and Patter Designing is not the same book, but I should see if my library has that one so I can see what the difference is especially since it is so much cheaper than the other.
Iliana, lol, one of these days your mom is going to give you a box full of all those old clothes you wanted her to make. I loved and still love to look at those pattern books. That’s probably why I learned to sew, my mom got tired of me asking her to make this or that for me and told me if I wanted it I had to make it myself!